Sunday, September 24, 2023

Why Vis, why?

I have a general rule, if you see a list of things to do, see or eat - cross out the top one or two and at least the bottom two. They are likely overrated and appreciatively bad.

First I walked to beach hungry for lunch but found the restaurant was gone. Then there are the hoards of British wedding tourists which are moving in small packs everywhere. Mostly due to that and the rain, I couldn't get in anywhere for dinner. And I was hungry.

After relaxing with a wine I tried Vis's most famous fish restaurant and get a seat. The experience was disastrous. The food I got was good. But the waiter completely ignored my requests to explain the menu and then ignored me. I had some tiny little shrimp in butter and garlic. And then a whole dorado with crispy potato wedges. (I'm sure there were better options - like the scorpion fish - which looked scary but google said better) I finally had to chase him down- he was on break - so I could pay and leave. Uggh.

As forecast, the rains came overnight, so it was a good excuse to sleep in. I had a very late breakfast/early lunch and then the rains came even heavier. (the banana toast with whipped ricotta- they translate all cheese as 'cottage' - was fantastic) as this was an outdoor cafe I made a break for a more watertight spot and did what you do on a rainy day - drink and read. I brought Luke Russert's travel memoire with me and it isn't bad and vaguely appropriate - although perhaps more relevant to 1998.

[not to fan boy, but I was a devotee of Tim Russet and MTP. And I have had the privilege to wait on both Luke and Ms Orth at the Anglers. Luke seems pretty down to earth and I even told him in my last meeting that I was bringing his book on the trip.]

During another break in the rain, I made the short walk to a church and cemetery just around the harbor. Nothing like a cemetery on a rainy day. And I was the only one there.

The rains have returned so I am in a spot called Momma Mia 2. I guess it's better than reading in my dorm room.

[as I was leaving I struck up a conversation with my waiter and his colleague. They are both Serbian working for the season. Turns out, the barista was in Brewster a few years ago on the J1 program. The world is smaller than you realize]

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