Quintay

There is something very satisfying about not planning well but things working out well. For what is my last full day of unrestricted vacation I find myself in the small unassuming fishing village of Quintay. I don't know how or why I zeroed in on this place but it is amazing. It's only 20 km off the main highway between Valparaiso and Santiago but a world away. After a zigzag over the mountains that has become so second nature, you arrive at a tiny rocky little cove called carato. There are a half dozen little yellow and red boats and a few houses and restaurants. Out at the point are the remnants of the old whaling station that operated for the first sixty years of the past century. (yes, past) Unlike Nantucket, they didn't need to process the whales on the ships - they just drug them into the station and processed on land. Because of the stench, the place was mostly avoided until the early 70's which may account for the lack of development.

(there are also a few dive shops here as there are several wrecks just off shore and the water is crystal clear)

I am fairly sure that I watched the conger eel that became my lunch being cleaned down on the beach - fried with some French fries and some sauvignon blanc and I'm not sure the day could get any better. And I am off to the vineyard!

Matetic Vineyards is just off the track of the "Ruta de Vino" between Valparaiso and Santiago. I had read about it online and then my State Department friends mentioned it as well. Wine tasting here I have learned is not just showing up at tasting rooms as in Napa and Napier. Generally speaking tours must be booked on advance and they end with a short tasting. Matetic is a bit of a splash out but the very nice accommodations include dinner and wine, breakast and a tour. As I will spend tomorrow night and most of Friday in only a partially reclined position - the idea of lounging poolside this afternoon and sleeping in a huge overstuffed king sized bed is definately appealing. Dinner - panko crusted shrimp, coq au vin and flan - is very nice (not outstanding)

So I am off to la la land. Adios one last night from Chile!