While the ducks on the lake were loud around sunrise, I had a solid sleep and enjoy a nice breakfast lakeside before heading off 15 minutes south to the archeological ruins of Butrint. The two fascinating aspects of this site is that you can walk pretty much unrestricted through the ruins. And that since nearly the time it was built it has suffered from water rise from the nearby lagoon and sea which mean much of the foundations are surrounded by water.
As was the case in Apollonia, it has not been well excavated nor maintained. There is some signage. And the most interesting aspect - the mosaic floors are covered with sand for protection. It's a big city that is fairly unknown. The most southern end of the Adriatic was controlled by Italy, Greece/Corfu and Butrint.
After a couple hours to walk around I headed to Ksamil which is one of the more popular seaside towns. As I guess I am spoiled, it wasn't great and mostly closed for the season. But I did have some time to kill before heading north-ish. I have done a big loop and if I continued all the way north I would be back in Ohrid.
I found a parking spot and a nice restaurant with a small beach - and a large subbed platform that blocked the view. I took a spot away from that and enjoyed a swim and some sun time.
Of all the places I have seen in the past two months I thought this might be a good time for pizza. So I went up to the restaurant - pizza side is closed! So I had a nice green sand with pomagranite and mango and a small order of squid rings in tomato sauce. It was really tasty.
Soon enough it was time to head just an hour north to Gjirokaster. My guy from the rental office is meeting me there and will drive the car back to Tirana tonight. Thankfully he met me at a gas station - he had taken the bus - and then he drove up the mountain to the hotel.
Gjirokaster is known as the 'stone city'. It was built by the Ottomans and has changed hands a few times. The toads are all paved stone and stone and white stucco buildings with heavy flat stone roofs like in Mostar. There is a Greek minority here due to the close proximity to the border. And it is reflected in the menus - ouzo, musaka, baklava.
The hotel is call the Hotel Musee which means 'museum'. It's very cute and comfortable - woodwork, lace and red carpets - and in a great spot near the old bazaar which is the center of town - but at the top of the mountain, which is a change.
The weather is going to take a turn tomorrow afternoon so hopefully I can get out and about after breakfast. There is a good museum in the castle for once the rain starts.
I am having a rakija cocktail at a place called the Hangover. Dinner is just down the street. (Thickened broth with rice and meatballs, grilled meat Pattie's with labneh and roasted vegetable stuffed eggplant - and tresleche cake and a huge rakija.
As was the case in Apollonia, it has not been well excavated nor maintained. There is some signage. And the most interesting aspect - the mosaic floors are covered with sand for protection. It's a big city that is fairly unknown. The most southern end of the Adriatic was controlled by Italy, Greece/Corfu and Butrint.
After a couple hours to walk around I headed to Ksamil which is one of the more popular seaside towns. As I guess I am spoiled, it wasn't great and mostly closed for the season. But I did have some time to kill before heading north-ish. I have done a big loop and if I continued all the way north I would be back in Ohrid.
I found a parking spot and a nice restaurant with a small beach - and a large subbed platform that blocked the view. I took a spot away from that and enjoyed a swim and some sun time.
Of all the places I have seen in the past two months I thought this might be a good time for pizza. So I went up to the restaurant - pizza side is closed! So I had a nice green sand with pomagranite and mango and a small order of squid rings in tomato sauce. It was really tasty.
Soon enough it was time to head just an hour north to Gjirokaster. My guy from the rental office is meeting me there and will drive the car back to Tirana tonight. Thankfully he met me at a gas station - he had taken the bus - and then he drove up the mountain to the hotel.
Gjirokaster is known as the 'stone city'. It was built by the Ottomans and has changed hands a few times. The toads are all paved stone and stone and white stucco buildings with heavy flat stone roofs like in Mostar. There is a Greek minority here due to the close proximity to the border. And it is reflected in the menus - ouzo, musaka, baklava.
The hotel is call the Hotel Musee which means 'museum'. It's very cute and comfortable - woodwork, lace and red carpets - and in a great spot near the old bazaar which is the center of town - but at the top of the mountain, which is a change.
The weather is going to take a turn tomorrow afternoon so hopefully I can get out and about after breakfast. There is a good museum in the castle for once the rain starts.
I am having a rakija cocktail at a place called the Hangover. Dinner is just down the street. (Thickened broth with rice and meatballs, grilled meat Pattie's with labneh and roasted vegetable stuffed eggplant - and tresleche cake and a huge rakija.
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