It’s been an interesting day. I didn’t sleep well, perhaps it was that latte. But after another traditional breakfast array, it was off on the Siege Tour. Just six of us in total and our guide, Mustafa. It’s amazing to be able to converse with someone that has actually lived it - and he is younger than me!
We started with some basic background on the four year siege of Sarajevo by the Serbs who wanted to annex the land that they thought rightfully belonged to Serbia and was inhabited by ethnic Serbs. Even though the residents of Sarajevo had voted this down. Croatia was not involved here.
Our first ‘stop’ was ‘snipers alley’ and the Holiday Inn hotel that was inhabited by foreign journalists. Sarajevo lies in a bowl surrounded by mountains which were controlled by the Serbs. The clear roads between the buildings were ripe for sniper fire.
It’s amazing how much normality ensued during the siege. Mustafa regularly navigated snipers alley to get to school. And he and his brother fashioned a hand crank generator so they could watch tv. On New Years Eve a local station broadcast a pirated version of the original Jurassic Park before it was released in Europe! Amazing!
Our next stop was something I never heard about - the Tunnel of Hope. Basically the Serbs controlled everything but a small gap of land where the airport was. This was controlled by the UN with the understanding that is would be used for relief flights only. So the Bosnians dug an 800 meter tunnel under the airport that allowed them to smuggle in supplies - on a very limited basis. Mustafa and his mother made this trip once. He was 14.
Next up was the abandoned and graffitied bob sled track from the 1984 Olympics. The vantage point was incredible looking over the city to the original stadium that has since been rebuilt. Another amazing site I never thought I would see in person.
Finally we stopped at a huge Jewish cemetery that was pock marked by bullets as it was a demarcation point.
It was a fascinating morning and Mustafa was very engaging. More on him to come.
I struck conversations with everyone in the group including a young couple from Ireland that were headed to a Mostar on the afternoon train. We exchanged recommendations mostly for dining. When we said our goodbyes I thought that was it. I went my way to a cozy little restaurant for lunch. I was just finishing some peppers stuffed with cheese when I felt a hand on my shoulder. It was the Irish. They had a lunch reservation and joined my table. We ate and drank for a while longer until they needed to grab their train. Lovely couple and we exchanged emails as she is part of a big pharma company and her boss is actually based in Framingham.
After a short rest I enjoyed the hamam/hot tub/steam. I booked a proper massage for tomorrow afternoon
And then Wednesday afternoon I am doing a cooking class with Mustafa - learning to make burek. And then he is giving me a transfer/tour back to Dubrovnik on Friday.
It doesn’t seem that Srebrenica is going to happen. It is a really long day and obviously not a happy subject.
I wasn’t starving but knew I needed to eat something, so I am in what could closest be described as a tavern from Game of Thrones enjoying some chicken stew and very nice homemade bread.
it’s a bit of an odd place but it is busy - which is a good sign - and the food is good.
Perhaps look for another place for a sweet on the way home. Sans the latte.
We started with some basic background on the four year siege of Sarajevo by the Serbs who wanted to annex the land that they thought rightfully belonged to Serbia and was inhabited by ethnic Serbs. Even though the residents of Sarajevo had voted this down. Croatia was not involved here.
Our first ‘stop’ was ‘snipers alley’ and the Holiday Inn hotel that was inhabited by foreign journalists. Sarajevo lies in a bowl surrounded by mountains which were controlled by the Serbs. The clear roads between the buildings were ripe for sniper fire.
It’s amazing how much normality ensued during the siege. Mustafa regularly navigated snipers alley to get to school. And he and his brother fashioned a hand crank generator so they could watch tv. On New Years Eve a local station broadcast a pirated version of the original Jurassic Park before it was released in Europe! Amazing!
Our next stop was something I never heard about - the Tunnel of Hope. Basically the Serbs controlled everything but a small gap of land where the airport was. This was controlled by the UN with the understanding that is would be used for relief flights only. So the Bosnians dug an 800 meter tunnel under the airport that allowed them to smuggle in supplies - on a very limited basis. Mustafa and his mother made this trip once. He was 14.
Next up was the abandoned and graffitied bob sled track from the 1984 Olympics. The vantage point was incredible looking over the city to the original stadium that has since been rebuilt. Another amazing site I never thought I would see in person.
Finally we stopped at a huge Jewish cemetery that was pock marked by bullets as it was a demarcation point.
It was a fascinating morning and Mustafa was very engaging. More on him to come.
I struck conversations with everyone in the group including a young couple from Ireland that were headed to a Mostar on the afternoon train. We exchanged recommendations mostly for dining. When we said our goodbyes I thought that was it. I went my way to a cozy little restaurant for lunch. I was just finishing some peppers stuffed with cheese when I felt a hand on my shoulder. It was the Irish. They had a lunch reservation and joined my table. We ate and drank for a while longer until they needed to grab their train. Lovely couple and we exchanged emails as she is part of a big pharma company and her boss is actually based in Framingham.
After a short rest I enjoyed the hamam/hot tub/steam. I booked a proper massage for tomorrow afternoon
And then Wednesday afternoon I am doing a cooking class with Mustafa - learning to make burek. And then he is giving me a transfer/tour back to Dubrovnik on Friday.
It doesn’t seem that Srebrenica is going to happen. It is a really long day and obviously not a happy subject.
I wasn’t starving but knew I needed to eat something, so I am in what could closest be described as a tavern from Game of Thrones enjoying some chicken stew and very nice homemade bread.
it’s a bit of an odd place but it is busy - which is a good sign - and the food is good.
Perhaps look for another place for a sweet on the way home. Sans the latte.
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