Vis, Hvar, Korcula - which of these is not like the other?

Today is one of those days that you can’t believe it’s still the same day. I’m having some sushi at an outdoor restaurant in Korčula (remember the č is a ch) with a really delicious glass of local rose.

But the day started miles and ferries away still in Vis with a taxi ride and then a hike to an amazing beach called Stiniva. It is a small bay almost cut off from the rest of the sea by two walls and shear rock cliffs. The calm beach is medium white pebbles. (The hike was the alternative to a boat trip which didn’t exist. It was a 20 minute, at your peril, goat path.)

The bay was formed when the roof of the original cave collapsed. It’s like something from the movie the Beach!

The little cafe has a boat that they tie off right by the beach and there is a rope line for a pair of dinghies. Other boats must anchor outside the swimming area and the walls.

While they’re a few diehards that make the hike, there is a regular influx of ‘boat people’ which I come to resent. They are on the boat tours and get about 15 minutes to swim in, take pictures and swim out again. They are like the tide. 10-15 bobbing heads.

Sadly after a few swims, a few beers and a cheese and prosciutto toast it was time to move on. Oh, and there was a proposal. She said yes.

The hike back up was perhaps a bit easier but it was in the midday sun. I was grateful that I had made a connection with my cab driver and we decided I would pay all at drop off, so he was waiting for me at the top.

My innkeeper was kind enough to extend checkout from 9am to 4pm. She didn’t have anyone coming in and as I keep hearing, the season is ending. So I was able to shower and change and head to the ferry.

The late afternoon ferry would take me back to Hvar. And then after an hour, I would connect to another line for the trip to Korcula. It was kind of fun to go back to someplace I actually knew. A slice of pizza. And a seat on the promenade. My terrace looked lonely.

The first ferry was a nice new catamaran. Pretty similar to home. The second was like an older inter island ferry that smelled funny.

We left Vis at 415 and arrived in Korcula at 745. Without too much pain I found the new pansion. The fourth floor caused some pain. My suitcase is too big but all this talk of end of season and cooler weather hopes I am well prepared.

I have a big window that looks out at the sea. Korcula old town is just like all the other fortified old towns - a big circular island with protective walls. Where the ferry came in was completely calm. On the other side of the town and my bedroom window, it is howling. The call it the BARDO or winter wind, except this is comfortable warm. It blows from the north and when it picks up speed as it descends to rocky coast it picks up more salt water which is why there is so little vegetation on some of the islands - salt burn.

My new innkeeper is a hoot. He gave me a card and told me to drop his name, Ivo.

So here I am talking wine with my Bosnian waiter in Korcula after swimming at Stiniva which apparently had been named the best beach in Europe - at some time, by some magazine.

And I am tired and ready for bed.