The tour covers Ramallah and Jericho as well as a baptism site in the Jordan River and then Bethlehem. There are about 15 of us of all nationalities. We have a driver and a nice Palestinian guide for the day.
As I mentioned during the East Jerusalem tour. Life and getting around is not easy for a Palestinian. The areas where both sides meet are the most caustic. But in a nutshell, the cities of Ramallah and Jericho are pretty normal, safe, friendly and kind of boring.
The highlight of Ramallah was a stop at Arafats grave and in Jericho which is close to the river and very green (actually subtropical because it is below sea level the warm moist air just sits on the valley ) was the main square to wander a bit and buy bananas.
Next we stop at one of several possible sites where Jesus was baptized. Since the river is the border it is again an armed encampment with the added benefit of both sides of the access road being mined to prevent swimmers. The river is only 25 feet wide so there is a pool rope that separates Israel from Jordan.
(Ps: I did wet my forehead and now I am thinking vote for Cruz so I guess I am born again)
(Ps: I did wet my forehead and now I am thinking vote for Cruz so I guess I am born again)
The final stop is Bethlehem which I find surprising to be in the West Bank but actually very close to Jerusalem. It is like a giant Christmas Tree Shop but they only sell nativity scenes. After a nice group lunch of upside down chicken and rice (they dump the pot at the table) we are off to the Church of the Nativity which was built on the manger site. The church is under renovation but it is under the church where the grotto is that marks the location of the birth.
It is packed with hordes of bus tours and it is all very chaotic.
And now to Banksy. So he is a bit of a famous graffiti artist and has a lot of work around the wall in Bethlehem. This is the separation barrier to keep the peace between the West Bank and Israel. The section we walk is 30 feet tall with guard towers and it is covered with graffiti and artwork. I must say that I have spent a bit of the last days in all sorts of religious sites and this is emotional.
I just don't get it.
And it comes to my last night in Jerusalem I have great plans but immediately fall asleep for s few hours. Luckily it is still only 8pm so I make a dinner reservation, put some laundry in and sit at the bar with a gin and tonic.
I wind up (while my delicates dry) at a placed called Chakra which is fully modern Israeli restaurant - apparently close to the American embassy and a favorite of John Kerry's. I am seated at the bar and have an ok rose and some wonderful red wine along with some steamed buns, tuna bruschetta and lamb chops with grilled veg. As seems the custom there are shots of Campari and some sweets and coffee.
Homeward bound and off to Nazareth by bus. John would be proud of me.
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