So obviously a few days behind but I must have misread the bus schedule so it seems I have an hour or so to kill on my way to Nazareth.
Saturday dawned early to make my way to the hostel and check in for the tour. I am storing my large bag here and just brining a backpack for the overnight in Petra. And when we return I'll stay two nights at the hostel which is the city center of West Jerusalem.
Our group consists of a retired couple from Pittsburg now living part time in Mexico, two retired guys from Texas and two young girls living in LA but both Muslim and one born in Kabul.
The border crossing is just as complicated as you would expect. We must cross about two hours north of a straight shot from Jerusalem. This is apparently to encourage the tours to see more of Jordan than just a direct route to Petra. And of course the Israeli vehicle cannot cross nor can our driver.
So we exit Israel into "no mans land" sans driver and vehicle and we meet our Jordanian driver and guide, Emad. He then ushers us through Jordanian immigration.
Overall Jordan seems very nice, clean and friendly. Similar to Morocco, they are a partially democratic country with a king who has the final say.
Our first stop is Jerash which is a pretty well preserved Roman ruin. There is some question my mind how much restoration has been done but it is impressive none the less. It is warm and thankfully my bland chicken dinner seems to have settled my tummy. We are all buying and drinking loads of water, just to be sure. Lunch is a big buffet restaurant that caters to tour groups. All the mezzah salads and an assortment of meats - chicken in rice, lamb in yogurt. Turns out Jordanian food is kind of bland like my Palestinian meal.
Our next stop is in downtown Amman and it is a hilltop ruin. A bit of a waste of time but the views are nice.
On the way out we stop for a snack which is that cheese encrusted with angle pasta that I had at the Greek place in Tel Aviv. It is 5 in the afternoon and the place is mobbed and it is served hot and creamy and really good. Who knew I would ever be in Amman, Jordan yet alone standing on a street corner eating dessert at 5 in the afternoon!
Now we have a ride ahead of us. About 4 hours to the Bedouin campsite for the night. Seems like a good idea to nap a bit until a storm hits and we need to pull off the road as for hail! The rest of the trip is uneventful but the weather is worrisome. They close the site in heavy rain.
The campsite is a collection of yurts with two twin beds and a night table and electric light. On until midnight. There is also a bathroom and shower tent along with a big dinner hall and community tent with a big fire, drums and music, shisha and wifi.
Dinner is much like lunch but yet is filling and tasty. It has been a long day but a relax on few pillows by the fire with some mint tea seems like a good way to end the night. (There are some similarities to both Morocco in general and the Sahara overnight. But this quite a bit more posh)
Breakfast comes early and it is nice to see the camp in the sunlight. Yes, it is lovely and clear. There is loads of hot water but the hour really demands a quick wash in the sink.
[I did actually gain a roommate as I did not pay the single supplement. There was actually an eight guy on the trip an Indian guy living in NYC. For some reason he was driving himself. So he just joins us for the yurt and the beginning of the Petra visit. It's all very odd]
Petra was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a big deal for Jordan. Emad says that tourism is off 95% since the start of the Arab Spring.
Not a lot is known about the XXX except they travelled extensively and gained a good knowledge of the world. This gorge that they made home was a trading stop along the Silk and Incense Routes (Frankincense anyone?)
From the entrance it is about a mile to reach the Treasury building. It is mostly a gorge walk with soaring cliffs and walls of every color you can imagine. The Treasury is carved right into the wall and in the right light is really amazing. It is especially well preserved. From here the valley opens up a bit and there are more carvings along with a lot of tombs. All along the trail are souvenir stands and Bedouins with camels, donkeys and carriages. At first the idea of a donkey right seems silly but it becomes clear that the tour has a bit of down time and one of the girls and the two guys and I opt to hire donkeys to take us up and back out of the other end of the valley to the Monastery. It is actually good fun and we get to see much more than on foot.
By the time we are ready to start the walk back out - 800 cruise ship passengers have arrived from a Red Sea ship. Perfect timing.
Another lunch and it is a long bus trip back to Israel. We get to enter at a closer crossing. Similar situation but the Israelis are much tougher and we are told that the bus will only wait 30 minutes to clear. If you are stopped for questioning you need to get a taxi back to Jerusalem. We are worried about the two Muslim girls but it all goes well and we are back to the hostel by 8pm.
(It is like a hostage exchange getting to the Israeli border with the bus having to zig zag the concrete barriers with guard towers on both sides.)
So the storms have brought a some cooler weather and it is in the low 50 with a strong breeze back in Jerusalem.
So you are probably asking about the hostel situation. Not really my ideal lodging. But this building that appears to be an old mental hospital is actually a great and inexpensive option. With the option for dorm rooms and private rooms with private baths. Wifi, breakfast, a bar what's not to like. It is sparse but comfy enough.
After a quick shower I am off to source some dinner. West Jerusalem is like the real world again. There is a market - by day - close by and they are a good option for a quick dinner. A bit of an odd fish and chips basket and a beer and I am good but there is really good Israeli style "jazz" being played and it is really loud and filled with people having fun. A good way to end the day. Another tour awaits early.
No comments:
Post a Comment