Last night as the sun set on the roof, I finally made my away and to dinner. There are a lot of dinner options and I thought I had done some good research but apparently not good enough. The web page I was referencing was a few years old. So that tapas style restaurant just a few minutes from the hotel was not featuring fresh seafood every Monday and was in fact on its last night of operation. Sounds depressing maybe? Not! It was great fun and I would guess my bill was half what it should have been - including "shots" of Campari with the bartender, Leor. The plates of the night were the chicken liver skewers with pineapple and whole and deep fried and smallish barracuda with soy glaze. Oh and the ice cream. All in all, good fun.
This morning after breakfast I made my way to Jaffa for another free tour. (So this is a big thing and worth it as you pay a gratuity at the end based on what you think and what you can afford.
So Jaffa sits high on a hill (or a tel) and is a 5000 year old port city referenced in the bible. (Noah's son Japhet may have founded the city, Jonas may have left Jaffa before he met the whale!) There was only one gate in the wall and it lead to Jerusalem. Though it's many incarnations - built upon one another, hence the hill - it retained its importance as a major port. When the original sixty families came to settle Israel in 1907 it was decided that Jaffa was too old and confined so the new city plan of Tel Aviv was created. (Tel Aviv means "new hill") The port remained but it also remained Arab as the Israeli state grew. In one of the first conflicts the Arab port workers went on strike and that lead to the construction of the northern Tel Aviv port.
There was quite a bit of destruction is the original city. Especially during the British colonization. So while superficially it appears old and interesting is very much gentrified and an artist colony attached to Tel Aviv. Although I have yet to see a single US chain with the exception of the Sheraton hotel.
After our tour which does feature great photo ops back onto the city as well as the oldish architecture, I wandered the sprawling flea market that features all the junk you would assume along with piles of mixed period furniture etc and a huge restaurant supply market. Perhaps with a good eye and more than 50lbs on the return flight, there might be a find or two. But I settled for lunch of a Sabich which traditionally is grilled eggplant, hard boiled egg and pickled vegetables in a pita. Mine was more of a plate with a homemade sesame roll. But very tasty with a Gold Star.
My return to the hotel was perfect timing for my complimentary massage and an obligatory afternoon nap before what is fast becoming my last night in the city.
I have returned to the neighborhood around my morning breakfast spot called Neve Tzedek for my dinner.
I am excited to try a Kurdish dish called kabbe which is a boiled meatball dumpling. Now I am no fan of boiled dough but these were to die for - in medium quantities. I also perhaps had my first Jerusalem artichoke which is really a small potato that tastes like an artichoke. Oh and of course lamb meatballs in yogurt. All paired with an Israeli rose.
I am writing from a wine bar just up the street where I am enjoying a dessert cheese course - a few cheeses, bread, strawberries and a sweet onion jam - along with an Israeli Cabernet Franc (Ben Haim)
It is lovely and cosy with slow Israeli jams playing and I am feeling very happy with my choices.
Market and beach tomorrow - my last full day in Tel Aviv.
[random thoughts. Lots of dogs, kids and electrified scooters and bikes. People are very nice. Service staff are mostly excellent. Prices are reasonable. Warm enough for the beach in the day but cool enough for a sweater at night. Since English is left to right and Hebrew is right to left - menus and receipts save space by printing side by side. Paul Ryan was in town today. Also the Forbes 30 under 30 forum. Suddenly seems like a lot more English being spoken. I wasn't invited]
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