Patagonia

(sorry for the delay in posting, there is only limited onternet access at the lodge)

TuesdayI am sitting in an adirondack chair just at the edge of the compound know as Hosteria Helsingfors. The lodge is set inside of the Glacier National Park. It is a three hour ride from the town and except for the eight other guests and six employees there is no one else for miles. On one side is a black rocky coastline and an enourmous milky blue lake created by the glacial run off. On the other three sides are spectacular snowtopped craggy grey mountains and scrub covered plateaus - these words and pictures will never quite describe it accurately.

The wind howls all the time but it isn't really cold and the suns rays are very strong. So it seems a perfect place to relax and recoup while waiting for lunch to be served. Yes I had a little bout with hopefully a 24 flu bug but after a good 14 sleep last night I am feeling well enough for lunch and a little hike along the coast line.

(lunch was a chicken salad caesar salad and some saffron risotto followed by a fresh fruit cup. All of the other guests are leaving today so it is my place until Thursday (the only offer transport on certain days and the whole place shuts on 31 March.)

SundayAfter the futbol match and my final dinner in BsAs I had about two hours of sleep before the alarm, the rental agent and the taxi. I didn't feel quite right them but chocked it up to the hour. The flight was uneventful and slept as much as I could arriving in El Calafate at about 10 am and joined my busmates a nice Belgian couple and four nice, but very American, Texans. We later had an ex-navy man from Brockton join us at the lodge. After quick check-in and a lunch of beef loin and cous cous salad we did our first hike down along the east coast from the lodge. It is very dry despite the huge lake and there is little animal life except for birds - including pink flamingos!

The walk is a nice break in for everyone and our guide Diego is remarkable. An unassuming gacho that speaks at least four languages and easily cracks jokes in all (the Belgian lady's hairdryer broke so he suggested she use mine)

We had a nice meal of mushroom pasta with a kind of rolled antipasta and mint mousse. Everyone turned in early for our full day out on Monday.

MondayI didn't sleep well and wasn't sure I would make our trip but I popped a few of everything in the medicine cabinet and had a lite breakfast before jumping onto another horse. I so glad I was able to go. Although our Belgian woman took a tumble right off and had to sit out.

We rode up the hill behind the hotel for about three hours before a few of us finished. The trek on foot - it was amazing how the terrain changed barren plateaus, wooded alpine glens, loose rock piled by the glacier and boggy flats. When we crested the last ridge it was we worth it - the edge of the ice trapped by huge rock walls so the melt formed a little waterfall into the bluest lagoon you will have ever seen. We had our pack lunches here and thought we heard some cracking in the ice. (about a half hour back down we heard an enourmous avalanche)

The ride back was uneventful but I was really tired. I jumped right in my bed an decided to forgo dinner and polite converation. Thankfully I was able to sleep and drank lots of water and skipped breakfast. Regular feedings resumed at lunch and I am pretty happy to be feeling better and having the whole place to myself. I had a nice hike after my time lounge in my adirondack chair and then came back inside for a little siesta before dinner. Since I am the only one here tonight I was set up in the living room next to the fireplace. A fried onion empanada in pastry dough and a nice bit of chicken with mashed pumpkin and chocolate mousse cake and ice cream for dessert.

After dining I took a quick stroll down to my chair to see if I could remember any of the stars from our open air dinner at Ayers Rock in Australia (I had some trouble without the reference of the dead tree)

(The Internet is off, but I will try to get this posted tomorrow - Wednesday)

Ciao!