Friends in low places

So just when I am starting to think I can't find any more interesting people on the road - today I share breakast with a young American couple from Minnesota - Brian and Stephanie - who are working embassy foreign service assignments with the State Department in Venezula. It's a two year assignment and they are three months in. I find it really interesting to discuss day-to-day life and visa processing issues. Obviously they are on holiday and visiting a host family that she lived with during university. (so that is the friends parts)

(here's the low places) Valparaiso is a really grimey city once you get off the hillsides. It's interesting to walk and seems more suspect than it likely really is. There is quite a bit more visable earthquake damage here - perhaps testimony to the age and maintenance of the buildings. The mercado central is closed which has put hundreds of fish mongers out of work. (the Chilean navy is based here and along with the uniformed officers I am watching a submarine belch smoke and move about the harbor) This is a very active port, so there is no beach activity to see - it is all port. After a nice walk and a coffee after breakast - I took the funicular down to what they call the "plan" or the flat land and then back up at the far end of the city - I wound up at Los Portenos a very local seafood restaurant across from the market. (I am a little embarrassed to say that Samatha Brown was in the main but now closed location so it is a tourist stop). I order the
seafood stew which after a generous dose of lemon is excellent - in fact throw out the seafood and just enjoy the broth and the bread!

Back at the "hotel hill" I browse a few shops and work with the front desk to best organize my trip back to Santiago Thursday. I find myself back at the Brighton for the view and the sours and am planning to go for a choriillana just down the hill - minced beef, egg, onions and of course cheese atop a pile of French fries!

(turns out there is no cheese? and the egg is scrambled - it is interesting and the place is worth the visit - but it could be improved on but I guess they do ok as they only serve this and one other dish)

I need something sweet so I stop at a cafe called Kabala for coffee and some fruit and ice cream and find a very good jazz trumpeter - he was also playing at lunch but this is significantly more appropriate venue!