Como te "llama"?

So not to minimize the news from Chile but I want to keep the blog updated. (this is a long one)
It is Sunday morning and I am sitting on the lovely and realitively peaceful Plaza 9 de Julio (Argentina's Independence Day - there is one in every town) I am enjoying my own version of brunch - coffee, scrambled eggs over sauteed vegetables and a few little croissants.

I fly back to Buenos Aires in a few hours and I must admit it feels a bit like going home! After the "terremoto" tour yesterday I watched CNN for a bit and then headed out at about 10PM for some dinner. I have to say, the hotel is nice but it is the overly friendly staff thay really makes the difference. (Speaking English helps too)

There is a zona here where all the pubs and penas are located. It's really just one street - a cleaner version of Bourbon in NOLA. Penas are traditional country bars. The concept started like an open mic where locals would grab a guitar and sing folk songs (or a Jones family sing-song). Sadly this has been taken to the next level of full blown stage performances. Add a few karaoke bars, a techno club and a few fancy places with suited doorman and you get the picture. It was entertaining but it is hard to follow along when you don't understand the words or the music (like reggae) and I was tired from a few long days.
When you left me last I was heading for dinner in Purmanarca. I've been moaning a bit about the meals so far but I am happy to report best meal so far - and yes it was llama. (I realize that I have just lost points with SA's Mom and Kim Novak) but it was awesome. White like pork and very tender. Served with quinona and cheese as a starch and some sweeted peppers and assorted other veg. Started with a quinona and corn salad course. A very nice local red wine. And an interesting carmelized tomato and tomato sweeted syrup with a crepe (concept was good but it was missing something)

The weather had been on my side all the way but I awoke a gray and cloudy morning. The multi-color mountains of
Purmanarca were fairly obscurred but I wandered around the little town as the tour buses arrived and the handicraft markets were being set up (bought a couple little things and some decent postcard pictures)

The route back Salta was to be a long one. I was in my rental VW Gol - a hatchbatch. As I began the assent the fog was a thick as any on Nantucket and then suddenly I broke through to these enourmous moutains and the sight of the road ahead of me. But in retrospect this was great as compared with things to come - the road was a well maintained two lane road. Eventually I made it to the top and began the decent. The scenery was remarkable and there was almost no other traffic so you could stop in the middle of the road to take pictures. As I reached the valley I could see the salt flats in the distance and this was a reference on my map from my "good friend" Martin at the hotel. I spotted a few llama in the distance and got some good pictures at about the area where the road sign said to turn.

I had been told the road would be bumpy but not umpaved! It was a fairly rutted stone chip road that went on without seeing another person - except three children at a little four building and a church town (gave away the last of my candy too) - for 100 km! It was flat and fairly dry but the road was graded below the natural grade so that if there was run- off from the moutains there was no place for it to go. The puddles were deep in some spots and it was just muddy in others. It was certainly not hatchback driving. Thankfully I had plenty of gas (not that there were many options).

I finally reached the small town at which I was aimed and hoped for some lunch and a fill up and paved roads. One out of three isn't too bad. Since it was late, everything in this dusty little gas refining town was closed for siesta. I will say that even though they spoke no English at all everyone was nice and helpful. I was able to fuel up but the short stretch of asphalt quickly turned back to dirt.
[I just boarded the plane and wanted to note that I believe this is like Labor Day weekend in South America and school begins tomorrow - could explain the large number of children traveling]
Ok a little more background. The little town I just left, San Antonio de Los Cobres, besides a gas production venue is one of the final stops of the "Tren de las Nubes" or train to the clouds. This is a sightseeing train that runs from Salta (4000 ft) to what is niw nearly to Chilean border at 14,000 ft. I am about to do the trip in reverse in my Gol.

I cross the train tracks and follow along with the bridges for the next several hours - some of it is even paved again. My guide has mentioned that behind a church in Santa Rosa are some Incan ruins. (turns out it is a cemetery but who's quibbling) I drive up another windy road at the top is a small parking area with another car. The ruins were nothing more than piles of rocks laid out to delineate floor plans. But the other car belongs to a German man who is traveling for several months and spends a few nights a week living in his SUV. (yeah!)

So I recall that Martin told me that the train only runs a six or so months of the year because the tracks wash out or are blocked so often. I soon find out why. The road inexplictably turn almost to a cow path following along the river. The sunny weather has turned to light rain and it is getting dark. There are a few passenger trucks on the "road" and then I remember the cargo trucks. Yes, there have been some trucks moving product to and from Chile. Luckily there is only one time that several vehicles all meet up together. After a bit of jockeying around we all get through and I finally make it back down the 10,000 feet and to Salta. And this is all before the earthquake.

I go for dinner of empanadas and some very good stew at a very locals place were I am sure I am the only tourist (another front desk recommendation) the food and service is very good and the menu is in both Spanish and English which I find pretty amusing for a locals dive.
[back at the apartment in BsAs now. On the plane I realize that the little church with the kids is actually on the cover of the in-flight magazine. There is a great little article about the simple life as well.]
I felt much like a porteno coming back from the country house today. I had a nice conversation with my cab driver who spoke no English (imagine that!) then opened up the house and went to the Disco (supermarket) for some supplies and am having a little din-din on the sofa and relaxing.
The news from Chile is not getting any better so I do see changes to the itinerary but not until mid-March. Thanks again for all the concern. But all is good. Estancia trip on Wednesday and fotbul on Thursday. Patagonia lodge begins next Sunday.