Wednesday, October 18, 2023

Tirana! Let’s get together again sometime

There are not a lot of sites to see in Tirana. It is not an old city - only 200 years. There is not a lot of crumbling interesting architecture. That’s not to say there isnt plenty of crumbling communist architecture. The castle is a shopping and restaurant arcade. Even Hoxha former residence is closed to the public. (It is an interesting example of mid century building)

The area of Blloku, which surrounds his house and was the exclusive enclave of the well connected is littered with trendy hip restaurants and cafes but the streets and sidewalks are a complete nightmare. (I need a break from grilled meat, so I am having sushi. This place would rival the design of any spot in Boston or Brooklyn) My waiter just explained that the reason so much of the sushi is at least partially seared or tempura is to satisfy the Albanian population. 

There is a lot of building going on. It will be interesting to revisit in a few years.

With all that said, the day was gorgeous  I was even able to have breakfast in the garden - somewhat removed from the orchestra et al.

Then after a second coffee stop, I stopped by the older mosque in the city. It’s super small but the decoration is interesting in that is graphic design but also images or places and building. Muslims are not permitted to depict faces so it unusual.

After the mosque, I went across the large square to the National Museum.  One of the coolest features of this communist gift to the country is a huge mosaic above the doors that depicts the evolution of Albania. It was just refurbished and it is nice.

(I couldn’t help but think that in the future archeologists will look at our tile floors and wonder why they are covered with ‘please keep 2 meters apart’.)

The museum was interesting but only partially signed in English. It highlighted the main reason that while Albania is part of the Balkans geographically but was never part of Yugoslavia. Albania was settled by the Illyrians. They technically were not Slavs. And they did and still do speak their own language. And then there is the issue of Kosovo. Which is really Albanian but was/is physically part of Serbia.

After the museum I wanted to check out the bazaar. I think food markets can be really interesting but with the exception of a small indoor meat and fish area and some out door fruit and veg. It was mostly souvenirs and dining.

Since it was lunch time I stopped at a place near the meat stalls and they were grilling up meats and sausages. I ordered some sausages and fries and some delicious labneh cheese spread.

Tomorrow I grab the car and head out of Tirana so I wanted to grab a few snacks for the road. And I needed to repack the suitcase.

Weekend away in Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia and then back to Albania for a southern road trip.

[there is this thing with women cleaning ladies here. They all look a bit like leftovers from the communist era and they are in restaurants cleaning bathrooms, on the street cleaning storefront. I even saw a lady today sweeping leaves from around a tree with a broom made from more leaves and branches.]

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