Yes, I am behind a day but it is for only good reasons of not having time and limited internet.
I woke up Saturday morning and the lake was still barreling over the seas wall. It actually sounded like the ocean. I guess the restaurants all have it down to a science as nothing along the water was closed or even getting wet.
I wanted something bigger than usual and I had noticed a place serving Nutella French toast - basically a sandwich topped with some fresh sliced fig. (That's an easy one to copy at home)
On my way out I drove to the large Orthodox/Byzantine church that is so famous, it is even the cover of my Lonely Planet guidebook for the Western Balkans.
Then it was on my way to the border. Easy peasy and I am on my way to Berat - the city of 1001 windows. It is only a couple hours and I do backtrack just a bit. The traffic is steady but moving along all two lane roads.
As I move farther south the landscape gets much more agricultural and green. Lots of olive groves, it's lovely.
I just drive through Berat on my way to a small winery and guesthouse. Or so I think. It is a huge complex and so new it isn't even complete. Winery complex, dining room and small hotel.
During the tour I become acquainted with a nice family Oscar, a Spaniard who is working in Tirana with the EU to help curb corruption. His wife, Ivana born in Lithuania but raised in Belarus. And their 14yo son, Ivan. They have been in Tirana three years and Oscar's contract will end in April. They are all anxious to return to Madrid.
After some small talk in the vineyards, we sit down together for the tasting - as we are the only English speakers. And enjoy some wine and meat and cheese. It's great conversation about travel and world events and politics of course. Ivan is a hoot. A precocious child but very funny and seemingly older than he is.
The night progresses and I order dinner - a small toast chicken - fried Gilbert's and all. Ivan has gone to his room and Mom and dad are full from lunch. Around 930, Ivan is back and ordering a chicken as he is hungry. All I know is I am glad to move on as I have a big day. But it is a really enjoyable evening.
We had some thunder and lightning but when I got up the sun was shining. Breakfast was a nice spread including a pitcher of hot milk - which was surprisingly good. And a warm little puff pastry called a petula which I ripped open and filled with jam.
Berat isn't far and I am meeting a tour at 10am. To be honest there isn't a lot to see and I am glad I haven't made this an overnight stop. The story goes that many people lived in these small houses that are stone on the ground level and the white stucco with dark wood trim in the second and third floors. In many ways they resemble the houses in Ohrid. They added extra windows for light and air which is why it is the city of windows. The city is cut in half by a small river and there really isn't any other distinguishing feature except a castle at the top. We make the trek and the biggest difference I'd that it is partially occupied by private homes and businesses.
There was a nice little family run restaurant where I had a lAmb and yogurt casserole that I've wanted to try. It was good but I was surprised that the yogurt turned into a custard so it was almost like a lamb omelette. They also had an interesting dessert - essentially frozen nougat.
After lunch it was back in the road three hours to Dhermi back on the Adriatic coast. With a short stop in the Greek ruins of Apollonia.
Apollonia was interesting although not well preserved or explained but just another sign that Greece approaches.
There was a nice four lane highway for much of the trip and things weee moving along well. But then I got to a National park near the coast that required a bit of agility. The highway ended but the road was ok. But then it started to rained and as I climbed higher and higher on these switchbacks we suddenly entered the cloud cover on the top and the mountain and it was worse than Nantucket in June the good news - there wasn't much traffic and my little car handles pretty well. Once I got down the other side it was amazing up look down on the crystal clear beaches. (There was also a rock slide being cleared)
I had read on-line about this little house high above the beach that was charming and I thought it might be a nice change. Especially see how the weather has been.
Vila Filip is just a guy and his wife's house with s couple of rooms. They neither speak much English so he is speaking into google translate. There is someone named Markos that answers the email and he had mentioned taking dinner here. After the drive, it sounded like s great idea. So an hour after my arrival I get a knock on my door and am delivered spaghetti and sausages, bread, feta cheese and roasted green peppers. And a glass of white wine. It's actually perfect. And view out to the sea wasn't bad either.
So it will be an early night and another day on the move tomorrow. Possibly trying to get to a beach. At least for the view. And then overnight at a mussel farm that is about as close as you can get to Corfu.
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