So I recovering from a bout of "Delhi belly" which hit me just upon my return from my Jerusalem tour last night. Not sure what caused it but as today is the sabbath - it was a good day to be down.
I'm on the roof deck of the Notre Dame hotel which originally was almost like a French embassy before Israeli statehood. It's lovely and the view into the old city is a peaceful reminder of the truth.
I've order a mixed cheese platter which is kind of the speciality along with an Israeli Sauvignon Blanc. Under the circumstances it seemed to be an obvious choice.
Yesterday after a quick Arab style breakfast at the hotel - lots of spreads and olives along with the regular cold continental.
My tour originated just inside the Damascus Gate in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. My hotel is just over the border from west to east Jerusalem. So I am on the Arab side. Keep in mind we are still in Israel. The rest of the Old City is divided into Christian, Jewish and Armenian.
Our tour is presented by a company famous for presenting both sides of the conflict without too much editorializing.
There is a fair amount of security around the gate. The Arabs do not appreciate the Israelis being there section. Through smart real estate dealings there are enclaves of Israelis living in the Arab Quarter. The have there own 24 hour security even just to leave there house.
The Old City is really not much different than a giant souk. With three major religions making some sort of claim. Because the city was sacked so many times each conquerer leveled the previous and rebuilt. The most controversial is the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock. The wall being remains of a Jewish temple upon which was built the Dome which surrounds the rock where Mohammad stepped off the earth.
Near this are the Christian sites of the Via Dorelosa which marks the stations of the cross as well as the Church of the Holy Sepulture which was built around the tomb of Jesus. Still trying to figure out where the Armenians fit in - and they don't care for visitors. But then again, I don't get that anyone does. It is literally like visiting an armed encampment. Only you can go here, and you can go over here. So while it was nice to say I was there and saw it in person. My view from the roof will do just fine going forward.
Our morning guide was a very liberally minded Israeli in that he sided with the Palestine cause. I thought he did a great job of presenting the facts. When we broke for lunch he and I ate together (hummus with chickpeas, pitas and falafels - so good!) I asked him two questions that I thought were relevant. Did the arbitrary drawing of boundaries after World War 1 coupled a sense of worldwide guilt after the holocaust lead to the situation that gave Israel the upper hand in the creation of the state. He agreed. Which is certainly not to say the Arabs don't have fault in their response. But perhaps the cause.
Our afternoon tour was with Mohammad. An older Palestinian man. This would be more of a driving tour of East Jerusalem and some of the settlements. Once again keep in mind this is still Israel. But if you are an Arab Israeli you have different legal documentation depending on when and how you got your status.
Much like the Old City, the first thing you notice is the cleanliness and degree of modernization. Upon closer inspection you also begin to see the security walls that separate Israel from the West Bank. You also see the Israeli settlements that have been built in the West Bank.
It's all very odd. And the restrictions that the Palestinians live under seem harsh. Our guide showed us a house that a man had built. It was three apartments but he did not have the proper permits so they forced him to brick up the lower floors.
This guide got a little too political for my taste and by the end of the tour between him rambling on and me being on the verge of death. I was about done.
Back to hotel now and an early more tour to the Dead Sea.
No comments:
Post a Comment