(I must have had a horrible previous life to deserve this one)
Essouria is much like many of the towns I have visited throughout this trip. A walled city with defensive positions and narrow winding streets with homes surrounding the souk. But this was all set on the beautiful blue Atlantic. After my afternoon at the beach I took my dinner at the riad with a twist on the traditional tangine - conger eel. To be honest I felt a bit off and while it was very good I enjoyed dessert of oranges sprinkled with cinnamon and chocolate a bit more.
The morning began with the usual bread laden breakfast and a small iomlete. And then it was off to my driver and the three hour trip to Oulidia. (For those that wonder about a rental car - I would have preferred it but apparently one way rentals are not possible in Morocco)
The terrain opened up quickly as we followed the coast north. Not unlike the middle coast of Portugal there were flat plateaus of grazing and farmlands ending in steep drop off to the sea below. As we moved even further north the pastures bordered by rock walls became just white rocky fields. We passed through a few small town and the large but very industrial Safi before arriving in Oulidia just after 1.
The dar wasn't quite where I expected - behind an auto mechanic shop but as always the world beyond the walks was peaceful nd quiet. This is definately more of a small guest house without the grandeur of some of my previous beds. And upon further investigation I found the first real resort town without walls or a medina.
Shortly after my arrival I met Phillip and Louise, teachers from just outside London. They were headed to the beach and while Guy, my dar keeper, was very nice he is more French than English so I obliged the offer. They were very nice and offered their insights after a few days. I expected something more rustic and remote and while views if the Atlantic and the lagoon were nice there as an abundance of villas and camper vans - yes! of great abundance in Morocco.
We separated near a restaurant recommended by Guy but I abandoned it after realizing that it didn't even have a water view and quickly rejoined my new friends on the beach. Here the fresh catch was being grilled and brought directly to your "table".
They ordered the lobster and I the spiny crab along with the normal tomato salad. The only thing missing was a cold beer. The lobster was very good and while the crab was good I think the Pine Island version might be a bit better. But they were huge so there was plenty to eat without too much work.
We sat an talked until the tide was about ready to take our table away. They had been to Vietnam last year and all in all were very pleasant lunch companions. They headed back to the dar for siesta and I did a short walk and then picked up some water and some cash and did the same.
Which brings me to dinner. Overlooking the lagoon (Oulidia and the lagoon are famous for their oysters) - wine, raw oysters, baked with almonds and cheese, creme brûlée with a base of chocolate and just to round out the trip a glass of Port.
(Funny how much this reminds me of my last day in chile in Quintau)
I have opted for another private taxi after breakfast to Casablanca. Oysters and the beach are the claim to fame here and I will only have the afternoon in Casablanca before my flight to Lisboa at Friday noon.
Final thoughts to follow.
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